Other notable inductees included Kazuki's,the modern-Japanese restaurant that transplanted from Daylesford to Lygon Street in December,bagging two hats,while neighbourhood heroes Congress Wine Bar,Napier Quarter and West Footscray's Harley and Rose were recognised with one. In the regions,Hogget Kitchen,in Warragul,Rare Hare,at Jackalope Hotel,and Cape Restaurant,at the RACV resort,received their first hat. Paringa Estate was rewarded for its new hire of chef Simon Tarlington,rising in the ranks from one hat to two.

The awards,attended by more than 800 restaurant industry guests including Matt Moran,Kylie Kwong and the Vittoria Coffee Legend Award recipient,Maggie Beer,were a double celebration. It is the 40th anniversary ofThe Age's first Good Food Guide,introducing chefs hats to the Australian dining landscape. Now in its third year as a national book,a team of 50 reviewers assesses more than 500 restaurants across the country to reach the final number.

At the ceremony,Rigby acknowledged how tough the year had been for the industry,noting how many high-profile restaurants had closed. While the trend was most notable in Sydney,four of Melbourne's hatted restaurants,ESP,Ramblr,Saint Crispin and The Press Club hung up their hats in 2019 to transform into casual restaurants.

But Rigby was also optimistic."Australia is one of the greatest countries in the world when it comes to its restaurant offering,thanks to the grit and determination of our incredible industry,"she said."And that's reflected in the restaurants featured in the newest edition of theGuide."

Tuesday's Good Food lift-out has more details on the award winners and pick up the new Good Food magazine,free with The Age on Friday.

TheGood Food Guide's third annual national edition is on sale now in newsagencies and bookstores,and available atthestore.com.au/gfg20,$29.99 with free shipping.