Don't judge a restaurant by its decor. Red Spice Road QV,a spin-off from the buzzy McKillop Street original,looks like a stylish south-east Asian hotel dining room. large,sleek but hardly bursting with personality. The Thai-inspired food is another story. Openers such as sticky peanut-covered balls of duck relish resting on watermelon squares,and one-bite betel leaf parcels filled with shredded chicken and kaffir lime look ready for a magazine close-up and taste just as good. Generous shared mains continue the good work,with flavours that snap,crackle and pop. Beef,simmered onions and mushrooms in an anise-scented broth,comes heaped with coriander leaves and chilli,and finely shredded kaffir lime leaves and still-squeaky snake beans lift red curry with prawns. But the menu's hero is stonkingly rich,wondrously tender pork belly with chilli caramel and herb-strewn apple slaw. Desserts such as a sundae layering black rice ice-cream,coconut jelly cubes and papaya end a visit on a high note.