14.5/20
Japanese$$$
Ocha pioneered modern-Asian fusion in Melbourne so successfully that 19 years and one relocation later,there are dishes that couldn't leave the upmarket Japan-influenced menu without the risk of regulars rioting. Golden,golfball-sized prawn dumplings with green-tea salt are one such item,scallops on the shell with a dab of hollandaise are another. They're hits for good reason,but if the better staff steer you towards wonderful specials,submit,perhaps,to elegant oxtail soup;cool,thinly sliced pork neck with perky ponzu dressing;or calamari stir-fried with precisely trimmed asparagus. The sushi is reliably pristine,the degustation still a winner. Ocha may not be the innovator it once was,but is still its discerning neighbourhood's big-night-out spot,with mod display-home-style decor,and it knows its clientele and delivers for them. Finish with sticky toffee pud or a spectacular banana fritter,cheeky reminders of just how good old favourites can be.