The European deserves a spot high on every local’s list of must-visit Melbourne institutions for out-of-towners,but time has not stood still here. The dark,woody room continues to draw a powerful and prestigious clientele,the menu is a roll-call of classics with a fresh nod to modern palates. Steak tartare is plated prettily with charred onion,caperberries and an oozing golden yolk;a seafood soup is at first a display of its components – flathead,prawns,pipis,scallops,a saffron aioli – then a deeply flavoured bisque poured tableside for flourish. Even the use of blueberries in a seasonally adaptive bombe Alaska is a lively touch. A slab of snowy-fleshed steamed barramundi with crab-stuffed zucchini flowers continues the theme. There’s excellent fresh pasta too,maybe the sweet rabbit agnolotti with tarragon,asparagus and fresh ricotta,and a menu section dedicated to nose-to-tail eating,from the beast’s marrow to chateaubriand. Service is fast-paced,knowledgeable and with easy smiles;it’s a highlight. The European is on song. 

And … Siglo,one of the city’s best cocktail bars,is on the roof.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Back streets of Paris.
Best bit The bistro classics.
Worst bit Not all tables are created equal.