A new take on pineapple upside-down cake.William MeppemThe idea of adding fennel to the sugar coating for the pineapple comes from Phillip Searle's famous chequerboard ice-cream of the late'80s. He used star anise and licorice,but I've tried to simplify with ground fennel seeds. Orange zest in the batter adds complexity to the pineapple – a partnership which cook and flavour expert Niki Segnit describes as having"all thejoie de vivre of a Hawaiian shirt without the stigma of wearing one". That's got to be a good thing!