Serve this rustic lamb roast with feta,salad and bread.William MeppemI love slow-roasted lamb and I cook it in many subtly varied ways. This version is inspired by the rustic cooking of the mountain villages of Greece. This is a dryish braise,or a wettish roast … either way,the result is a richly sticky and intensely flavoured dish,scented with oregano and bay,with plenty of lemon brightening and slicing through the richness. Serve with a lightly dressed bitter leaf salad,large chunks of firm feta and bread to mop up all the juices.