The CenturySupplied14/20
Chinese$$$
Its barn-like big brother,Golden Century,set the standard. This more elegant baby brother steers a subtler course,with windows to the street and plush private rooms. The signature Golden Century wall of double-glazed tanks is there,however,brimming with larger-than-life crustaceans and slow-moving finfish,and the menu is a series of time-tested GC classics. Good-humoured waiters are as personable as they are efficient,even if the room can be a bit chilly for some. Warm up with sweet,fleshy braised eggplant,refresh your palate with cold cucumber in garlic sauce,then settle in for must-have live pipis tossed in XO sauce and slathered over noodles. Salt-and-pepper squid has just the right bite and salted fish and beancurd hotpot is pungent and earthy. It may not have the chaotic,slam-bam,wee-hours chef-pit-stop feel of the original,but with great food,a touch of style and exemplary service,who's quibbling?