In 2009,the Ayubi family opened Parwana Afghan Kitchen in Adelaide with the aim to share with the city the culture of their homeland,a place of rich history,revered traditions and generous hospitality,not just a country long afflicted with war.
The Afghan restaurant soon became a beloved part of the South Australian city,even gaining acclaim country-wide for their fragrant feasts,warm service and next-generation expansion.
Just over 10 years later,Durkhanai Ayubi lays the recipes of her mother Farida onto the page with her cookbookParwana:Recipes and Stories from an Afghan Kitchen.
Intertwined with history,Afghan customs,family memories,and how food plays an important part in all these subjects,are traditional recipes for Parwana's famed mantu (dumplings),palaw (rice dishes) and gosht (grilled meats). Here are a few to try.
Kabuli palaw (rice with lamb,carrots and sultanas)
This beautiful and balanced rice is Afghanistan's national dish. In a time before the convenience of julienne slicers and shop-bought peeled and slivered nuts,kabuli palaw was time-consuming and elaborate to prepare,and was reserved primarily for ceremonial events. These days,although it takes less time to make,it still commands reverence. The delicate blend of spices and a crowning glory of glistening carrot,sultanas and nuts gives kabuli palaw pride of place among Afghan rice dishes.
INGREDIENTS
- To prepare the palaw rice,add the oil and onion to a pressure cooker pan over high heat and fry for 5 minutes,or until golden brown. Add the lamb and stir occasionally for 5 minutes,or until the meat is browned and sealed. Add 1 litre (4 cups) hot water and 1 tablespoon salt,place the lid on the pressure cooker and bring to high pressure. Cook at high pressure for 15 minutes,then carefully release the pressure to remove the lid. Using a slotted spoon,take out the meat (which should be lovely and tender) and set aside. Reserve the stock to flavour the rice.
- Bring 2.5 litres (10 cups) water to the boil in a large saucepan. Meanwhile,drain excess water from the rice,add it to the boiling water with 1 tablespoon salt and cook for 6-8 minutes,or until the rice is parboiled and the grains look like they have doubled in length.
- Drain the rice in a colander and return to the saucepan. Pour the meat stock over the rice,then add the cumin,cardamom and 1 tablespoon salt to the mix. Using a large,flat slotted spoon,known to Afghans as a kafgeer,mix gently. With the kafgeer,create a well in the centre of the rice and place the lamb in the well. Cover the meat with rice and place the lid on the saucepan. Cook over high heat until steam escapes from under the lid,then reduce the heat to very low and cook for 20 minutes.
- For the topping,heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat until shimmering. Add the carrot and fry for 4-5 minutes,or until slightly softened. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl. Add the sultanas to the oil and fry for 3 minutes,or until they are plump and float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and add to the bowl with the carrot. Add the nuts,sugar and cardamom to the bowl,and mix gently.
- Using the kafgeer,layer the rice and lamb onto a large serving platter,creating a heap. Liberally spoon over the topping and serve immediately.
Serves4-6
Mantu (steamed dumplings)
Mantu are small steamed dumplings intricately folded by hand. Because of the labour involved to make them – from rolling out the pastry to filling the dumplings and folding them into flowerbud-like bundles – they are often reserved for special occasions. It is not unusual for family and friends to gather before an event to make mantu together,which is an occasion in itself.
In many ways,mantu captures perfectly the cross-cultural pollination that flourished along the Silk Road. The dish is thought to have originated in Central Asia,in territories belonging to the Mongol Empire,from where it was carried to Turkey. As the recipe's popularity spread,the dish was adapted to create a number of cultural variations,including Turkish manti,Chinese mantou and Korean mandoo. Each of these iterations follows the same basic formula of hand-rolled dough that's usually filled with ground meat and vegetables,and served topped with a tomato-based sauce and garlic yoghurt dressing.
You will need a large steamer pot to steam the mantu. At Parwana,we use a metal steamer – these are available in various sizes from Asian grocery shops. They include a base for the water,several trays with holes that stack on top and a lid. A stacked bamboo steamer could also work.
INGREDIENTS
- Dried mint and mild paprika,to serve
For the filling
Shirpera (Afghan milk fudge)
Shirpera is a nut-filled sweet with a texture that sits somewhere between a crumbly nougat and fudge. In Afghanistan,during celebrations such as Eid,people usually buy shirpera from specialty sweet shops called qanadis,which sell different types of sweets such as halwa,hard-boiled candies,chocolates and sugared almonds called noql. Shirpera requires overnight resting for the sweet to fully set. This is one of my sister Fatema's recipes.
INGREDIENTS
- 440g (2 cups) caster sugar
- 2 tsp ground cardamom
- 1 tbsp rosewater
- 1 tbsp butter
- 100g) slivered almonds
- 50g coarsely chopped pistachios
- 670g (6 cups) full-cream milk powder
- 50g finely chopped pistachios
- Handful of slivered pistachios,to decorate