The uninitiated should expect elbow-room only once burrowed into one of the soft red leather banquettes that frame paper-covered tables. A seat at the comptoir allows for more breathing space – but half the fun of Montrachet is in the theatrics of floor staff manoeuvring tables and diners in and out throughout service. The other half,of course,is in the eating – produce driven cuisine,delicate plating,clean,uncomplicated flavours. Old favourites like steak frites,cheese souffle,and garlicky buttery snails still favour the Gallic bent menu (regulars would riot should they be removed),while the addition of a few modern slants entice a new generation of diners without alienating any purist Francophile. Find fall-apart pork cheek resting on lardon-studded potato galette,a verdant vinegar-based sauce the perfect foil against the rich flesh;or confit of duck,perhaps,beautifully seasoned and resting on speck rendered to melting point,prettied up by onion curves and a confetti of lentils.

Pro tip: Kellam cuts loose on Friday nights,with a five-course degustation for just $99.