Lonsdale Street outside is no Calabrian piazza. But within its compact walls,Italian&Sons has a bouncy sense of enjoyment that's unmistakably Italian-Australian,hype and stereotype and all. Stacked with wine boxes and with a wall full of scrawled messages and words of wisdom (bring your Italian dictionary),it's full of practised waiters,excited groups,a wood-fired oven and a Berkel slicer working overtime. That's the clue. order affettati to start,from sweet young pancetta with its milky,lardy frill to spiced-up'nduja (salami paste) and sliced cacciatore. Mandatory on the side is a hunk of wood-fired focaccia,with a slug of EVOO. Sarde in saor (sweet-and-sour sardines) has currant tang,with fried onion,pine nuts and a citrus lilt. Gnocchi with smoked salted ricotta,eggplant and tomato was a touch dense,but good;and baked suckling lamb'stracotto'is dreamy with pecorino,peas and potatoes - as is baked panettone pudding with amarena cherries and a whisked zabaglione.