Sokyo at The Star.
Sokyo at The Star.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Japanese$$$

With 2.5 kilometres of rope dramatically suspended from the ceiling and an in-house beat-spinning DJ,Sokyo is bent on getting your attention. In the swank surrounds of The Darling hotel,it’s a choose-your-own-adventure through modern Japanese cuisine. This bullet-train of flavours doesn’t get more contemporary than Moreton Bay bug sashimi served with Vegemite croutons,burnt butter mayo and passionfruit jelly. Chef Chase Kojima (ex-Nobu) isn’t fishing for shock value;instead he’s paying tribute to the local icon. Plus,Vegemite has a salty,yeasty twin in miso,a Japanese staple. Other inventive dishes include nigiri of crisped rice,topped with spicy tuna,and ‘mochi’ ice-cream – a great delivery system of sweetness conveyed through soft dessert dumpling parcels with a frozen strawberry milkshake. Brilliant. Corn with pickled grapes and ponzu was rather too over-pitched in tang,but otherwise this is an energetic update on sushi,sashimi and the robata grill – with a friendly Sydney accent.

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