Tiny tables in this modern double-fronted restaurant are constantly rearranged,Tetris-like,to accommodate the surging hordes. Naan is served dripping with butter to scoop up any number of thick,thin and creamy curries made with whole spices,and all can be ordered'Aussie-hot'or'Indian-hot'. Nutty lemon rice is dotted with mustard seeds,and perfectly complements a spicy saag paneer with strips of fresh ginger. Dhal makhani has a depth that can only be achieved from 20 hours of cooking. The excellent spectrum of chutneys and pickles ranges from the explosive Lausan Ki (chilli and garlic) to a sweet tamarind.