If the name means'secret shop',no-one's told the hordes who pile into tiny Ajitoya daily for home-style yet modern Japanese fare. Thankfully the cool terrazzo floor and quirky flower arrangements bring a sense of serenity. Kick off with karaage,wickedly good fried chicken in a barely-there potato starch coating. Takoyaki are also top-notch,crisp balls spiked with diced octopus,festive under a snowdrift of red ginger,green nori and feathery bonito flakes. Dig in to shogayaki don,slender ribbons of pork reclining on rice,kissed with mayo and Japanese seven-spice. Augment the experience with Japanese craft beers,from espresso stout to red miso lager.