Ben Shewry tells a great Australian story,for a Kiwi. His food is connected to its roots (literally,there's a kitchen garden out back) like few other chefs'. You might find sweet,rare wallaby;pearl meat given spark by beads of finger lime;luscious marron in a chorizo broth;the signature potato cooked in earth;one dessert of rare native fruits on sheep's milk yoghurt beneath ruby native-currant shaved ice;another that unites seasonal fruit,honey and meringue in a miniature beehive box. Staff are as polished as you'd expect. The small rooms,dramatic in black,with spotlit pools of creamy white,make the most of close-ish quarters. They are often full of food tourists and dish-snapping diners,as befits Shewry's now global profile as a proponent of nature-based cuisine,despite the suburban location of this restaurant co-owned by two doctors. By the petits fours of speckled,salted-caramel chocolate eggs,every diner should have their own tale to tell. Attica is the best it's been.