One slinky riverside location (formerly Pearl) plus owner Chris Lucas (Chin Chin) equals flash crowd. From day one,folks have crammed around the bar and in the smart no-bookings dining room for the pacy vibe as much as the simple ingredient-driven Italian food. Baby's huge menu (big enough to double as a placemat) covers all bases,but mostly pizza bases,with more than 20 kinds including,perhaps,zucchini flowers,fior di latte and mint. Otherwise,there's a range of things to share:salumi and mozzarella,say,or butterflied sardines scattered with fresh peas. Panini,pizza and pastries at breakfast? Yeah,baby.