The plate-sized flounder turns heads and is sold out by 8pm;the suckling pig has been a big hit too. But this handsome,long-time,well-loved local has plenty more to keep regulars returning. Menu mainstays might include steamed zucchini flower with crab,or lemon-crumbed veal. Pastas are house-made,with sauces that beg to be soaked up with crusty Baker D. Chirico bread. Service is informal but meticulous,glasses topped up,linen crisp. Much on the menu is excellent:a tasting plate includes vitello tonnato,carpaccio and figs with gorgonzola. Scallops are lifted by cauliflower puree and crisp pancetta. Lamb rack has lovely accompaniments,a palette of pea puree,burghul and goat's curd. But other dishes perhaps don't hit the same mark - fettuccine with porcini feels too lush with oil. Crisp-skinned barramundi atop fregola in a saffron,spanner crab and tomato broth seems shy with flavours. But desserts reward stayers:hazelnut ganache with chestnut millefoglie and honey icecream,or a classy little plate of petits fours.