The locals keep Centonove busy,coming back for consistently good classical Italian fare and superb service. This 1930s corner landmark has the buzz of a bar downstairs and a more traditional restaurant feel upstairs,with its art and mirrors,but both spaces ring with laughter and conversation. Sometimes the dishes are simple,as in fresh,moist flounder that appears often as a special and lifts off the bone;or zesty,lemon-crusted cotoletta topped with cabbage,radicchio and parmesan salad. And sometimes they are more artful,like pork- and veal-filled agnolotti made with paper-thin pasta,soaked in velvety sage-butter sauce cut with aged balsamic. But either way,you'll be tempted to go the full three rounds,with coffee-soaked tiramisu that lives up to its pick-me-up name and is so light that it melts on the tongue,or dense hazelnut chocolate ganache with smooth chestnut puree-filled millefoglie and chocolate crumble.