Sometimes it's nice to get back to basics,and at China Max you can do just that. No jostling queues or touch-screens here. Instead,oriental timber carvings,red lanterns and the odd tinsel tassel identify this restaurant as old-school Chinese;and if the faded uniforms,well-worn menus and occasionally vague service underline its age,at least the quiet,unpretentious environment and classic Cantonese fare with flair conjure comfortable familiarity. To begin,a crisp iceberg lettuce cup filled with scallops and fluffy egg is an original take on sang choy bao,and a much nimbler option than the soft-shell crab,which may be a little oily for some tastes. For mains,a hotpot of pork ribs in a rich red sauce (made from red rice and spice) will have you effortlessly sucking meat off the bone,while a dish of Sichuan eggplant might be more sugar than spice. Desserts,such as lemon tart and custard buns,demonstrate ambitions stretching beyond the ubiquitous banana fritter.