Owner Fabio Angele at the new Brunetti Classico in Moonee Ponds.
Owner Fabio Angele at the new Brunetti Classico in Moonee Ponds. Eddie Jim

Brunetti Classico owner Fabio Angele says he’s “celebrating Melbourne’s unique laneway culture” across two adjacent spaces in a street-level breezeway connecting Puckle Street and Penny Lane. It’s smaller than theCarlton “mothership” – with room for 130 diners across 345 square metres – but filled with the same gleaming marble and terrazzo,signature burgundy branding,and Italian eating and drinking options.

Like its Carlton counterpart,Brunetti Classico is serving a variety of Italian-style cakes and pastries.
Like its Carlton counterpart,Brunetti Classico is serving a variety of Italian-style cakes and pastries.Eddie Jim
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That means glass cabinets chock-full of elaborate celebration cakes (including seasonal variations) and gelato,as well as dedicated coffee and aperitivo bars – serving Italian beer on tap and cocktails – plus pizza al taglio (by the slice),arancini and panini.

As in Carlton,there’ll be a strong focus on capturing the late night post-movie crowd. “A lot of cafes close at night,” Angele says. “Ours thrives.”

The new Brunetti Classico in Moonee Ponds.
The new Brunetti Classico in Moonee Ponds.Eddie Jim

But that’s only half the news. Angele has opened a tiny takeaway boutique on Carlton’s Drummond Street,where pastry chefs are experimenting with menu items not available at the other stores,on Lygon Street,at Melbourne Airport and now,in Moonee Ponds. (The Brunetti Oro stores,including one onFlinders Lane,are run by Fabio’s brother Yuri after theysplit the business.)

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First cab off the rank is maritozzi,Rome-style brioche buns filled to the brim with cream. “My father used to make them when he was nine years old in Rome – he’s 90 now,” says Angele. Expect the classic version as well as riffs with tiramisu andBiscoff,along with croissants piped to order with your choice of house-made jams and custards.

Brunetti Classico is now open at Penny Lane,Moonee Ponds and at shop D,333 Drummond Street,Carlton.

brunetticlassico.com.au

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Tomas TelegrammaTomas Telegramma is a food,drinks and culture writer.

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