Idle a while:Dakdak's interior evokes a hip collectibles bazaar.Michael Clayton-JonesIt's the kind of neighbourhood that's the backbone of Melbourne's economy:so many square kilometres of breeze-block factory and red-brick warehouse,a zone that deals in fasteners and struts,where you might go to practise or obtain panel-beating and spray-painting,where you'll catch a glimpse through half-raised roller doors of cardboard cartons of those Chinese-made rubber ducks.
At these light-industrial-slash-commercial zones breakfast,lunch and everything in between for local workers usually comes out of a lunch box,a deep fryer or the back of a sandwich truck,and the coffee is,well,hot and coffee-cup flavoured.
But not in Moorabbin,where Ben Cowen - a one-time film and TV prop guy who studied set design at VCA - has installed a whole lot of Volkswagen memorabilia,loads of op-shop furniture,a kitchen in a vintage Viscount Ambassador caravan and a massive collection of old Eskies in what was once the Sass steering wheel factory on a corner surrounded by said auto workshops and rubber-duck warehouses - as well as more interesting establishments like the Two Brothers craft brewery and Lucky 13 Garage,a workshop-turned-bar that caused a rumpus in 2013 by hiring topless waitresses to pull lunch trade.
Dakdak burger with hand-cut wedges.Michael Clayton-JonesDakdak doesn't need that. Instead,chefs Anna Higgins (who worked at Half Moon in Brighton) and Manjula Walker (ex-Tuck Shop Take Away) are busy in the caravan turning out food that is a kind of hipster-tradie hybrid for fluoro-trimmed warehouse managers,brown-slacked front-office guys and gals and dudes in custom Beetles:a big breakfast plate of eggs,bacon,chipolata sausages,roesti and mushrooms,or that staple of the early morning smoko,a bacon and egg sandwich (for just $6,zhooshed up with rocket and house tomato relish),as well as some less,er,blokey options like the vegorama (roesti with avo,poached eggs,truffled hollandaise) and coconut-almond muesli with poached fruit. There are even tasty red velvet cupcakes with a VW logo atop.
The hot lunch order is the Dakdak burger. It's big and juicy (no baby brioche buns here),with a clean-tasting patty that needed just a touch more grill smoke,plus a nice melt of Swiss cheese,some vinegary-sweet pickle,tomato and a pile of mixed leaves.
It comes with a generous tin of hand-cut wedges on a wooden board;it's a lunch bargain at $10,and the"sold-out"sign goes up on the blackboard menu early. Also served with the wedges is pulled pork and coleslaw in a burger bun:tender pork,fresh,crunchy coleslaw and a slather of tangy house-made barbecue sauce.
Vegorama includes potato roesti and truffled hollandaise.Michael Clayton-Jones Coffee comes courtesy of Elsternwick's Fayale - a nice espresso roast that is dark and fruity in a short black but that went MIA in a long black. (Lattes and long blacks are served in mugs your uncle used to drink tea from.)
The food is a fresh,nicely done and affordable cafe riff on the lunch shop and the food truck,served in what feels like a Smith Street second-hand bazaar.
And Dakdak? Obvious:the sound of those famous German air-cooled engines,idling.
Do … Bring your Volksie. Ben Cowen is a fan.
Don't … Come on a Sunday - like the rest of the neighbourhood,it's closed.
Dish … Dakdak burger with hand-cut wedges.
Vibe … Hipster-tradie lunch bar.
The Age Good Food Under $30 is available at selected bookshops and newsagents and online attheageshop.com.au for $9.99.