Can a dumpling joint be sophisticated? A bamboo-patterned feature wall and chunky blondwood furniture put this place above most,and the food has a bit of pizazz,with claypots and soups served in stylish earthenware bowls. But what of the dumplings? Bountiful serves,fat with finely minced,gingery pork or rich mushrooms,could be a meal in themselves,perhaps rounded off with a pillow-soft white bun filled with red bean or custard. It would be a shame,however,not to sample the claypots. The prawn wonton version comprises juicy mouthfuls in a brightly spiced broth groaning with vegetables and silky mushrooms.