The salad nicoise from France-Soir.Eddie JimWHERE AND WHAT
Nothing much has changed at Jean-Paul Prunetti's little slice of Paris on Toorak for the past 25-plus years. The very model of the classic French brasserie,it has carved a niche as a kind of unofficial clubhouse embraced by a coterie of loyal regulars as a place where things remain steadfastly the same despite the tides of fashion lapping outside its doors. The all-Gallic wait staff can be charming or abrupt depending on their mood;service can be erratic and the food can be outclassed by other big names in the field. But there's a charming insouciance to France-Soir and the illusion it creates of being on a Parisian boulevard rather than Toorak Road,South Yarra,is a beguiling one.
WHERE TO SIT
The space is long and narrow,with mirrors scrawled with daily specials and linen-clad tables closely packed so it's easy to overhear your neighbours'conversations. Try flattery,bribery and persuasion to sit towards the front;down the back,where waiters come crashing through the kitchen doors,can feel a little frenzied for those looking for a relaxing dinner.
WHEN TO GO
France-Soir is open daily for lunch,and dinner goes until midnight. It's important to book ahead - even on a cold Monday night it can be a full house.
DRINK
A treasure-trove of French wines - encyclopaedic,deep and expensive - is one of France-Soir's calling cards and makes it the home away from home for many a local vinophile whose palate has gone to France and won't be returning any time soon. But it isn't so parochial to ignore a fair selection of New World wines represented on its pages - and you can BYO wine for $12 a bottle corkage.
EAT
Snails and pissaladiere,salad nicoise and beef bourguignon,steak au poivre and roasted duckling with orange sauce. The menu at France-Soir isn't exactly replete with surprises - although what's not to love about the time-honoured cornerstones of French cuisine? It's simple and straightforward,meeting expectations rather than exceeding them. But it does show some signs of assimilation - there is a lightness and an Australian slant towards some dishes,such as grilled scampi with lemongrass,or sea perch dumplings with prawn sauce,while couscous Mondays have their legion of followers.
WHO'S THERE
A veritable who's-who of Melbourne life,from politicians to barristers,actors to artists.
WHY BOTHER?
Classic French food in a classic French bistro setting,with a wine list to die for - it's a no-brainer.
France-Soir
11 Toorak Road,South Yarra,phone 9866 8569