Il Bacaro sets the template for the perfect Italian restaurant. There's the setting,a cloistered space winking invitingly behind timber venetians;the cheery brio of the Italian-speaking waiters;the wine list,a lengthy ode to the homeland. Il Bacaro has it all sewn up. After 11 years in the job,chef David Dellai nails exactly what the crowd wants - lightly fried calamari on rocket is rustically straightforward,while kingfish crudo skews thrillingly modern with pickled cucumber,red grapes,bottarga mayo and pink peppercorns. Pasta is outstanding - lemon-infused tagliolini buddying up with raw tuna and salmon roe - while mains go either way,with nonna-style roasted kid in a wet braise with tomato and kipflers,or more art-directed venison with foie gras sauce and cocoa nib-studded tartare. The signature agave cheesecake with violet ice-cream and fairy floss finishes things with a youthful flourish.