With its laneways aromatic from the handiwork of baristas and an enduring penchant for city tailoring in every shade of black,Melbourne loves to channel la dolce vita Italiana. Unsurprising,then,that a sophisticated but bustling Italian restaurant has thrived in sexy,buzzy Little Collins Street since the mid-1990s. Naturally it comes with moody lighting,leather banquettes,effusive Italian-peppered patter from the staff,a menu of ancient and modern food (think risotto with thistle,pork chop with amaretto-poached fig) and a clientele in sharp suits checking deals on their phones. Like a beautiful chunk of Roman marble,Il Bacaro seems immortal,with its long-time chef still producing iconic calamari on rocket and roast duck with mustard fruits,but also succulent scallops with almond cream,crisp pig cheek and muscatels. His desserts are crazy-brave:things like garishly delicious beetroot-glazed strawberries with goat’s curd panna cotta,white chocolate fizz and basil. Prego,Melbourne. 

And …Have a Vespa Martini at that spacious central marble bar.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Trad Italian zhooshed for CBD sophisticates.
Best bit Surprising ingredients.
Worst bit Can get noisy.