Sucking hot soybeans from their salted pod,a little wooden box of top-shelf sake at the ready - there's a lot to love about Komeyui. It's the vision of Hokkaido-born chef Motomu Kumano (ex-Kenzan) who designed the restaurant with harmony,health and tradition in mind. Aesthetics are considered,from the warmly lit,blond-timbered space and beautiful Japanese crockery to the stunning sashimi platter of kingfish,salmon,scallop and king dory with sheer daikon crisps and mini towers of wasabi. Rice is cooked in a hagama,a traditional cast-iron pot,and a shichirin (charcoal brazier) is used to grill luscious black cod,marinated for three days in miso,mirin or sake. Hokkaido specialities include a succulent foil-wrapped parcel of steamed salmon with white miso and beanshoots,and the soul-satisfying Berkshire pork curry hotpot,a miso-based brew,is kept warm at the table with a gas burner. Then,for dessert,there's silken sake brulee with a brittle top. Service is confident and friendly,just another solid aspect of this splendid spot.