Chef and hands-on meat man Adrian Richardson's easygoing ways and nose-to-tail food philosophy are always on show in his Victorian-era corner shopfront restaurant,where the butcher's block does heavy duty and house-made is the mantra. Illustrations of a pig and steer (each sliced into choice cuts,with tasting notes) feature on a blackboard wall in the lofty-ceilinged space with bentwood chairs,fence-wire chandeliers and much rawhide glam. Sausages are house-made,the charcuterie meats cured upstairs,and cubes of Atlantic salmon in a cucumber and apple salad are wondrously smoked on site. Dry-aged,on-the-bone rib-eye is a standout among well-rested,heavyweight steaks. Rolled pork loin is roasted and ringed in pleasure-giving crackling. But the finer points can delight too - piquant horseradish cream,hand-cut russet burbank fries,the outside herb garden - at this rustic-chic bistro,which charms with its big-hearted take on the food chain,right through to a tasting plate of desserts to share.