Lake House

Alla Wolf-Tasker may no longer step up to the stoves every day,but her influence is writ large across this destination restaurant. Her musings on the season introduce the menu,and portraits by her artist husband,Allan,grace the dining room walls. Alla's Russian heritage and European training can be felt in the fiercely regional cuisine,though smoked eel with beetroot remoulade might share space with offerings such as quail,shiitake and tofu broth,which look elsewhere for inspiration. Distinct flavours hit the mark in a starter of snapper escabeche,punchy morcilla and golden brandade croquettes. A main of tender guinea fowl might rest atop freshly foraged pine,slippery jack and black trumpet mushrooms. Further comfort can be found in peanut butter parfait,black-sesame ice-cream and nubs of caramelised banana. Well-versed service and a world-class wine cellar guarantee return visits from the Lake House faithful.