In warmer months,the sun dapples the dining room in flickering gold;in winter,eerie mists swirl from the lake outside. Plush cushions and soft banquettes envelop and cosset;flowers soar above the waiter’s station. It’s luxurious:so succumb and settle in. Evocatively named dish ‘Rivers and Lakes’ is a glorious flurry of techniques and waterway proteins:with verdant salsa verde,there’s delicate smoked trout jelly,fine sashimi of Murray cod,a gleaming yabby and quenelles of eel brandade;puffed pumpernickel crisps for texture. Mains might feature expertly roasted and rested fillet of kangaroo with mountain pepper and sweet heirloom beets and the daring juxtaposition of slow-braised beef rib and translucent,fat bug,revelling in a frisky Asian broth. A quenelle of golden sweetcorn sorbet and tart passionfruit parfait combine with the unexpected aniseed hit of tarragon to create a memorable dessert. Lake House is unique,beautiful and,at 35,at its peak.

And … Pamper yourself – stay the night,book into the spa.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeDeluxe country house weekend.
Best bitThe tasting menu.
Worst bitYou have to go home.