Maha Article Lead - narrowSupplied15.5/20
Middle Eastern$$$
You know you're in for a big occasion the moment you enter this sultry subterranean den. The long,inviting space is divided into several rooms:a moody bar,a richly coloured dining room with thick Persian carpet and a cushion-scattered banquette,and way down the back,hidden by an ornate laser-cut partition,a private room. Adroit staff take you through the food and wine options,which include an elaborate'sultan's banquet',a more rustic soufra ('little eats') menu and a vegetarian feast,plus a wide-ranging wine list. Splurge on the six- or eight-course banquet and you'll discover how refined Middle Eastern food can be. Highly worked dishes might include tender scallops and juice-spurting'pearls'of lime,bathed with cool coconut water at the table,and snapper with velvety corn custard and crab mousse rolled in sucuk sausage crumbs. Touches like sprinkling guests'hands with lemon-scented water and presenting an exit package of the fixings to recreate Maha's signature Turkish delight doughnuts are special indeed.