Os Kitchen&Wine Bar

Os epitomises the welcoming,and welcome,neighbourhood restaurant. It's steady and intimate enough to feel like home and varied enough to make return visits interesting. The menu is laid out bistro style but the food is Italian and the dishes are rendered with enthusiasm and polish. You might start with a sweet-tart crudo of tuna,radish and blood orange,or a gorgonzola,cauliflower and truffle tart in tremendously rich pastry,both of which look as exciting as they taste. Pasta dishes are comforting. lamb ragu zinging with marjoram clings to fat,house-made pappardelle;duck ravioli is smothered in a clever confit sauce. There's always a grill of the day,perhaps a stonking great rib-eye steak,seasoned and rested perfectly,and served with a jug of salsa verde. Just like the service,desserts are canny but relaxed. a chocolate torte is appropriately dense and a special of wintry fruit crumble might come topped with ginger-spiked custard.