Paladarr is,in the best way,a traditional restaurant. Deliberate service delivers Chaloem Chaiseeha's polished northern Thai cuisine - some of the city's best - and the former State Bank premises have a certain prudential grandeur,even if the sweeping curtains and lush carpets are starting to look just a little tired. But that's a quibble,as the food is vivid,the menu urging diners not to pull back on the chilli in the house-made curry pastes. Prawns make an aromatic entree,seared and glossy with ginger,lemongrass and chilli making a tart,syrupy dressing. Wok-tossed,thin-sliced beef is tumbled with garlic and Thai basil. The daily fish might be gently steamed,herb-stuffed snapper drizzled with nam jim sauce feisty with fresh lime,while pieces of chewy/crunchy belly pork punctuate glossy Chinese broccoli,stir-fried with a hit of chilli. Desserts have a sophisticated touch,coconut rum cream and Ricketts Point ginger and lime icecream conjured into a parfait that tastes of the tropics.