Ever visited Thailand's northern region of Issan? Monk-turned-chef Chaloem Chaiseeha hails from those Mekong River surrounds,and loads his menu accordingly with starters offering a bang of chilli and heat. A shredded green pawpaw salad with peanuts and dried shrimp is full of zest and crunch. A minced chicken salad,gritty with toasted ground rice,bursts with coriander,spring onion and mint. Mains venture further into Thailand,including a sweetly fragrant massaman beef curry with cardamom and cinnamon,or deep-fried fleshy whole snapper curving around a fresh apple,mango and cashew salad. The heat subsides over dessert,with mango slices aside black sticky rice with coconut,or lemon tart alongside strawberries. Quietly efficient service,chocolate-toned interiors and leather couches and decorative Thai hanging lanterns provide an elegant backdrop. The focus here is Chaloem's food,delivered with a dollop of Issan education.