With one of Australia’s great architectural reveals as a greeting,Port Phillip Estate promises much. And with new chef Stuart Deller in the kitchen,the food delivers on the pledge,with outstanding ideas wrought into tasty and satisfying dishes. A breathtakingly pretty blue-eye dish almost outdoes the view towards Western Port:classic technique shines through in the golden crisped skin,pearly flesh and shimmering onion consomme,while a meandering eye for local bounty sees samphire and nasturtium scattered over the plate. A duck dish is a similar balance of light and shade,with carved breast blushing over a melange of shredded leg meat,pert peas and sticky jus. Desserts do a clever dance of textures and flavours:a parfait of caramelised white chocolate plays off an almond tuile and frisky fennel sorbet. White tablecloths,weighty cutlery,proper glassware and confident,well-drilled service further signal that this is a classy operation.

And … The cellar door offers bistro lunches from Saturday to Tuesday.

THE LOW-DOWN
VibeLuxurious.
Best bitThe view.
Worst bitWith so many wines to try,you'll need a designated driver.