Unpretentious in every way,this light,white shopfront has wide windows and dark bare boards,its minimalist good looks and crisply dressed tables given warmth by a friendly atmosphere and service. Strong,clear flavours that linger are the key to every dish,including sumac-crusted,boned quail with shaved cucumber,pomegranate and flaked almond salad. Bruschetta toppings change each day - perhaps caramelised onions,truffle paste and just-cooked scallops. Earthy porcini and wild-mushroom risotto might be topped with wilted spinach and black truffle. Beetroot risotto and lemon yoghurt is so flavoursome it threatens to outshine its accompanying tender,pan-seared pink kangaroo loin. Traditional desserts each take a new flavour or two,like Attiki honey panna cotta with honeycomb crumbs and vincotto,or gooey chocolate fondant with muscatel icecream. So good. Preserve has acquired a liquor licence and a short,smart wine list but retained its generous approach to corkage,adding to the appeal of a neat neighbourhood package.