This place has quite a history:it's been a brothel,a police station and an ASIO hangout but it's been Punch Lane for 17 years,long enough to cultivate an air of lived-in luxury. Low light gleams off mirrors,racks of wine bottles and the 100-year-old jarrah bar. Even when it's packed,the room emanates a gentlemanly ease. You can drink beer,aperitifs and just about any spirit you care to name but wine is really where it's at:served by staff who are always across the regularly changing lists of Old and New World labels. Settle into a red leather chair,order some oysters or a cheese and leek croquette,and feel part of history.