This treasure trove of Italian comestibles,in which crammed deli fridges fight for space with timber tables and chairs,could cause Italophiles to switch suburbs. The array of foods-to-go is astonishing,and the house-made pastas and sauces are inspiring. The daily menu appears on brown paper hung high on a wall. Succumb to nurturing stracciatella or dazzling eggplant and diavoletto (chilli mozzarella) bruschetta,then,tortelli stuffed with ricotta and gorgonzola and fresh pear nuggets,topped with grilled prosciutto and paddling in a burnt thyme butter. Espresso zabaglione,a legendary restorative,is served both for breakfast and dessert.