Squint and you can almost make out Mad Men's Don Draper in the corner cradling a whisky,because Rockpool has Manhattan-like qualities,with double-height ceilings and claret-coloured banquettes. Equally impressive and seductive,it's apt for business lunches or romantic dinners. Though dry-aged,wood-fire grilled meat is the restaurant's stock in trade,the broad menu offers a wealth of options,from confit duck to crisp-fried flathead,shucked-to-order oysters and an elegant starter of raw tuna,ocean trout and kingfish with fresh wasabi and finger lime. Though a generous,juicy rotisserie chicken may tempt you to stray away from the paddock,it's the beef - world-class wagyu,grass- or grain-fed,from minute-steak to rib-eye - that lures most. Sides are terrific,perhaps wagyu-fat garlic and rosemary potatoes,bitey Warrigal greens or cheesy macaroni. A huge service team means the odd hitch occurs:sticky wine perhaps arriving with the last bite of a luscious fig tart. Otherwise,like Don,Rockpool is a smooth operator.