'On the bay'can describe anything within a sniff of a salty breeze;here,the description is literal. Sails'huge windows are one metre from the sand,giving unimpeded views of beach-walkers,swimmers and scavenging seagulls. The nautical theme continues inside with'sails'strung up in the style of a grand marquee. Linen tablecloths and padded chairs deliver a dressed-up look that makes this a popular place for weddings and functions. The food has formality too,at times magnified by fussy touches. A sardine entree presents two whole fish atop a smear of basil puree,their heads resting on cherry tomatoes,with a dob of tomato sorbet and two piles of almond and garlic crumble. For mains,ocean trout cooked sous-vide might lack the strength of flavour of its accompanying braised fennel risotto. A dessert of apple compote is more successful,lifted with a silky vanilla panna cotta. Service is friendly but can lack polish given the prices. Oh,but the view