Argentinian tucker is not too familiar in Victoria,but San Telmo could change all that. Few expenses were spared in making this wood-and-leather shrine to charcoal-seared beef as authentic as can be:the parrilla or grill,crafted there and assembled here,is magnificent. Breakfast aside,a meal here revolves around flame-grilled beef,ideally secondary cuts such as flank or hanger steaks,meaty ribs and delicate,fire-kissed sweetbreads - all cooked over mallee root coals,all offered with lashings of house-made mild chimichurri sauce or perky salsa. Supporting acts are hardly second fiddles:deep-fried pastry empanadas,especially the cheesy ones,are superb,as are addictive corn and polenta chips with chipotle chilli mayo. Flame-roasted vegies and lively salads (think palmheart,pear,jamon and mozzarella) complete the picture. There's pudding,of course:seductive dulce de leche flan should be compulsory;the alfajor cookies are nearly as good.