Shyun

JAPANESE-born Tom Suzuki loves his fish,and it is a focus at this ripper little noshery. You will see him stationed at his''sashimi bar'',a sectioned-off area of Shyun's bench,little bigger than a chopping board,preparing and slicing the day's cuts of sashimi.

He spent a few years at Footscray's Japanese-owned wholesaler Oceania Seafoods,and quality - but not ridiculously pricey - seafood is his MO.

Sashimi platters are top value,the''regular''with 10 fleshy pieces of salmon,kingfish,tuna,a little knob of wasabi and a few bits of crisp greenery. For this price (10 pieces for $8,20 for $15) and in this lunchy,low-key setting it is an outright bargain. Chirashi,a spread of sashimi,seasonal white fish,scallops,calamari,eel,prawn and flying fish caviar on sushi rice is also a signature.

If you are an options person,the create-your-own bento is a joy - prettily plated,not in a box,each component grouped by price. Choose teriyaki ($3) - chicken,fish or tofu - the tofu silken,wobbly and deliciously coated in the sticky-sweet combo of sake,mirin and soy. Tempura ($4) is a loose,higgledy jumble of vegies bound by light,crunchy batter;and also on the plate is a fresh Japanese-style slaw,a stock potato salad with lots of mayo and white rice topped with fukujinzuke pickle.

Nasu dengaku ($6.50),a dome of eggplant that is deep-fried then steamed,is sauced with a rich miso sauce,the recipe based on Suzuki's home-town version in Nagoya. Be warned though,this dish is super-salty. Opt to add meat and a juicy scoop of minced pork sits on top,saucy with miso and a little chilli.

The staff is notably friendly,a smiley,helpful bunch for which nothing is too much trouble,and there is a lot of love for Shyun (pronounced''shoon'').

It started life as a 10-seater and expanded to create room for 18 more - but it is still not big enough,and a back-room expansion for another 30 or so is scheduled to open in November.

Shyun is not groundbreaking,and the cramped fitout is nothing flash,but what it does do - above-standard Japanese classics and top-value seafood - it does very,very well.

Where 126 Koornang Road,Carnegie,9569 6530

PricesBento dishes,$3-$5;rice&noodles,lunches,$8-$11.50;cakes and slices,$2.50-$6.50

Cash only

UnlicensedLicence pending

Open Tues-Thurs,11am-9pm;Fri-Sat,11am-9pm;Sun,noon-9pm (closed 4-5pm weekdays)

Websiteshyun.net.au

CuisineJapanese

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nrousseau@theage.com.au