Alfresco,beneath a vine-leaf canopy,with an aged grass-fed Mallee T-bone,there's not a lot wrong with the world. But then,the subdued elegance of the dining room,with views of the massive red gum charcoal pit,is not bad either. The Grill and its co-tenant,Seasons,share a stellar wine list and a predilection for local,seasonal produce. Despite chef changes,both restaurants have matured well (like aged beef) and are consistent purveyors of high-quality modern food. A case in point:a starter of spiced baby calamari with tahini yoghurt. The Grill's close relationship with two local butchers ensures superb grass- and grain-fed cuts,a good selection of which comes on the platter for two with grain-fed Mallee lamb backstrap,grain-fed eye fillet medallions,grass-fed aged Mallee sirloin,fried potatoes and seasonal vegetables. And there's a choice of sauces,including red-wine jus and bearnaise. The menu is augmented with South Australian seafood,and there are chocolates by local maker Trudie Chant.