Respected,revered,even deified,Stefano's is one restaurant that deserves the hyperbole. Its reputation as a crucible of edgily rustic Italian food with a produce-driven sensibility is as relevant today as when Stefano de Pieri established his restaurant in the dim and moody cellar of the Grand Hotel 20 years ago. Make the effort - booking ahead,naturally - and be rewarded with honest,spot-on Italian cooking with the occasional modern flourish. Campari and salt-cured salmon holding air-light goat's milk'panna cotta'dusted with a powder of beetroot and lime is as tricky as Stefano's gets. Otherwise,there's the perfect sweetness of roasted yabby tails with dehydrated corn polenta and a vibrant sauce of stinging nettles;or the simplicity of tagliolini with a soulfully earthy mushroom sauce,aged grana and black truffles grated at the table. The lengthy wine list is a great opportunity to explore some lesser-known Italian byways,and the feeling of abundance extends to desserts,with a concoction of figs,almonds and honey icecream a grand finale.