It would be easy to let the approach to All Saints – an elm-lined drive arriving at an imposing,turreted wine centre – lead to over-expectation;Simon Arkless’ alluring cuisine ensures no one leaves disappointed. The Terrace itself is bunkered under a permanent marquee to the north of the main buildings overlooking lush lawns,and proceedings can start modestly enough too;perhaps oysters with fresh lime,ginger and chilli dressing,or snapper tartare drizzled in lemon-infused oil and capers. The refinement increases cumulatively:larger dishes such as house-smoked duck breast may be surrounded by roast fig halves glistening with muscat vincotto;or meltingly tender aged wagyu rump could be dressed in a modicum of red wine sauce with bone-marrow puree flourished across the plate. There are no tricks of deconstruction,just a perfect balance between statement flavours and finesse,such as buttermilk panna cotta crowned with strawberry jelly and moscato granita for a fresh bite alongside toffee banana ice-cream.

And … There’s a kids’ fixed-price menu for $40.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Country styling.
Best bit The setting.
Worst bit Trying to choose which fortified you’ll drink after dinner.