The Argus Dining Room

Banish any memories of an uninspiring hotel restaurant with meals to match. A marvellous makeover of this grand 1930s hotel has retained its Art Deco features,added whimsy,and divided the big room with geometric glass partitions to create a balance of spaciousness and intimacy and an ambience of muted opulence. Forget the drama of chef and key staff quitting soon after its 2012 relaunch - the Argus now offers a splendid dining experience. Chef David Willcocks's cutting-edge artistry can surprise and delight. Dinner may begin with a complimentary Japanese savoury custard in an eggshell,and finish with a chocolate'pearl'hidden in a lidded oyster shell. Finely sliced,marinated scallops and truffle may,like petals,encircle a scoop of bloody mary sorbet. Rare-breed beef or lamb come with imaginative garnishes;vegetarian dishes marry colour,texture and flavour. Desserts? Perhaps a'honey pot'with royal jelly,pollen and fruit;or fromage frais and berries with goat's milk ice-cream.