Down the bin-lined,graffitied lane,a neon welcome glows above Tonka’s nondescript door. Inside,the greeting is warm,the fitout crisp,the open kitchen abuzz. Beyond the bar the space opens into a big-windowed room that’s flooded with natural light by day. Chef Adam D’Sylva and team dish up Indian-inspired food made from top-notch ingredients. Each month,they sell about 1500 of the street snack pani puri,a delicate one-bite crunch of spiced potato,mung beans and tamarind chutney. Tuna tartare is another star,a pretty plate of sashimi-grade yellowfin bejewelled with pomegranate seeds,and given zip with picked ginger,ponzu and fresh wasabi. Bigger dishes include curries,such as a brilliant vego offering with cashew-stuffed tempura jalepeno and baby eggplant,and meaty,cardamom-rich lamb. Follow that with a jaggery-sweet banana parfait. Service is faultless. What’s next? ‘We keep on joking that we’ll do an Italian restaurant soon,’ D’Sylva says. Stay tuned.

And … Haven't booked? There’s room for about 50 walk- ins in the bar.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Posh but casual.
Best bit The snacky,thali menu.
Worst bit Now,which laneway was it again?