Zaatar

This family-run venture,a bright spot in an otherwise drab stretch of Sydney Road,beckons passersby with spicy come-hither scents. The open layout features smart Moroccan-style tiles,contemporary furniture and cabinets stacked with the star attractions:Middle Eastern baked goods. Toasted haloumi ‘zocaccia’,with zaatar rounds standing in for focaccia,has lots of chew,and green olives lend a salty punch. Mezza - a changing array of dips,salads,falafels and pastries such as cheese triangles - is an inexpensive menu sampler,topping out at $13.50 for a little of everything. Syrup-dripping sweets plug any remaining gaps.