Good Food hat15/20How we score
Indian$$$$
It’s hard to imagine Sydney without Abhi’s,and thankfully for the past 35 years,we haven’t had to. Kumar and Suba Mahadevan opened the restaurant in 1990,and the cosy,silver-wallpapered dining room has pulled a spice-loving crowd ever since.
All your staples are ready and waiting,from the lush,potato-stuffed cylinder of masala dosa and the thick,dark and creamy dhal makhani,to a supremely comforting chicken Hyderabadi biryani and light gulab jamun,thegolden dumplings steeped in rose and saffron syrup.
New dishes turn up on the specials list – maybe prawns in a crisp tapioca coating with crunchy curry leaves – and anything done in the wood-fired tandoor oven is a good bet (meaty lamb chops,eight different naans and parathas).
Big shout-out to the good-value wine list,and to restaurants built from family pride,hard work and a pioneering spirit.
Continue thisseries
For a long family lunch where there’s always more flatbread.
Package deal of artisan sake,clever dishes and warm service.
A steakhouse in a warehouse with all the grills.
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