This newcomer on Redfern’s main drag has quickly become the suburb’s most popular spot for second dates,Italian grapes,pasta and cured meat. And not just any cured meat – Tony Soprano’s favourite,gabagool! Grab a spot at the spacious warm-lit bar,order a big plate of the salumi,and you’re away.

There’s personality in spades,from a Crown Lager cameo on the excellent nebbiolo-championing wine list,informed staff happy to talk you through said drinks,and a menu blending Italy and France with a bit of Aussie nostalgia (we’re particularly fond of the steak diane and hand-cut frites).

Mandilli di seta – aka silk-handkerchief pasta – punches with anchovy,butter and saffron;ribbon-thin slices of beef tongue practically vibrate with flavour thanks to an oil rich mix of garlic,ginger and chilli salted for a fortnight;and there’s a slab of sticky-date cake thicker than a large-print edition Tolstoy.

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South Sydney

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