Good Food hat15/20How we score
Contemporary$$$$
Behind a garage door,nestled between breweries and poultry wholesalers,is this cosy converted-warehouse restaurant that delivers a mash-up of cuisines. Fringed lamps,Persian rugs and tables covered in lace or plastic take cues from the homes of the co-owners’ Lebanese,Macedonian and Greek families,while the food melds cultures and skews tradition.
Pink taramasalata piped onto shokupan toast with pickled cucumber,bottarga and sesame,for instance,and tangy house-made yoghurt dolloped over chickpeas,pita crumbs and a shockingly green garlic-chive oil.
Barbecued heritage-breed Sommerlad chicken comes to the table fresh off the flames,burnished with a sticky garlicky,caramelised glaze,best paired with curried potato salad capped with briny fried capers.
Finish strong with spongy semolina cake soaked in hibiscus syrup,plus a round of rajika for a group toast to Baba.
Continue thisseries
Shopfront specialising in humble yet hearty banh cuon.
Tapas bar downstairs,Spanish restaurant on top.
Package deal of artisan sake,clever dishes and warm service.
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