The dining room.
1/7The dining room.Jennifer Soo
“Hot ‘n’ cold eggplant” with cashew cream and tomatoes.
2/7“Hot ‘n’ cold eggplant” with cashew cream and tomatoes.Jennifer Soo
Confit tuna with spring vegetables.
3/7Confit tuna with spring vegetables.Jennifer Soo
Lamb chop with sorrel and green beans.
4/7Lamb chop with sorrel and green beans.Jennifer Soo
“Dad’s olive oil” gelato.
5/7“Dad’s olive oil” gelato.Jennifer Soo
The dining room has a lived-in feel.
6/7The dining room has a lived-in feel.Supplied
The exterior.
7/7The exterior.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

Behind a garage door,nestled between breweries and poultry wholesalers,is this cosy converted-warehouse restaurant that delivers a mash-up of cuisines. Fringed lamps,Persian rugs and tables covered in lace or plastic take cues from the homes of the co-owners’ Lebanese,Macedonian and Greek families,while the food melds cultures and skews tradition.

Pink taramasalata piped onto shokupan toast with pickled cucumber,bottarga and sesame,for instance,and tangy house-made yoghurt dolloped over chickpeas,pita crumbs and a shockingly green garlic-chive oil.

Barbecued heritage-breed Sommerlad chicken comes to the table fresh off the flames,burnished with a sticky garlicky,caramelised glaze,best paired with curried potato salad capped with briny fried capers.

Advertisement

Finish strong with spongy semolina cake soaked in hibiscus syrup,plus a round of rajika for a group toast to Baba.

Continue thisseries

Inner West and Western Sydney
Up next
Banh cuon ba oanh (steamed rice paper roll).

Banh Cuon Ba Oanh

Shopfront specialising in humble yet hearty banh cuon.

The paella at Bar Louise.

Bar Louise

Tapas bar downstairs,Spanish restaurant on top.

Previous
Bonito crudo with burnt honey and rhubarb-boshi at Ante in Newtown on 20 January,2022. Photo:Brook Mitchell

Ante

Package deal of artisan sake,clever dishes and warm service.

See all stories

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement