It might only be a stroll from Manly beach,but Banco – a tiny space with a lived-in feel and a slim stretch of kitchen featuring a char-grill and charcoal ovens – draws inspiration from fire rather than the ocean. But even if the heat source is elemental,the cooking is all finesse.
A plate of pork neck,equal parts charred and tender,shows a deft touch with that grill,mustard dressing adding zing. Same goes for the octopus on a swirl of lemongrass sauce,the flesh smoky and yielding.
Small plates range from a harissa-spiked chicken skewer strewn with marigold to a bright,neatly presented mini passionfruit pavlova.
Service is keen and knowledgeable,primed to lead you through a drinks list that eschews cliches for carbonated negronis,mini-martinis dotted with shiso oil and ethically produced wine.
The once-secret lobster roll may now be a menu staple,but there’s still plenty left to discover here.